The next leap year is only four years away, which means I have plenty of time to pick the right watch. IWC is one of the early brands to enter the fray. On Leap Day, I previewed their new perpetual calendar collection, which is a very fitting way to celebrate a leap year. However, since I wasn’t allowed to post the preview until earlier this week, I’m going to start with another replica IWC perpetual calendar. Aside from Patek Philippe, IWC is the brand I most associate with perpetual calendars.
Thanks to the genius of the legendary Kurt Klaus, IWC officially entered the complication race in 1985 with the launch of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar. Since then, IWC’s complication collection has grown from a single perpetual calendar to a split chronograph, then a one-minute repeater, and finally a tourbillon in a short time. So when it comes to perpetual calendars, the IWC replica deserves our utmost respect.
Luxurious Replica IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar on Sale
In a year like this for fake IWC, even a “normal” perpetual calendar can be overlooked, especially in the Portugieser line, where there is a wide range of SKUs, from more affordable and everyday time-only or chronograph watches to the more premium perpetual calendar models. And it is precisely because of the perpetual calendar that I think the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar line might have a bit of “middle child syndrome” and need some extra attention. In fact, these watches are so good that when I saw them in the preview, I couldn’t help but spend more time photographing them. I believe they really deserve their moment in the sun.
The new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is a great addition to the line, completing the collection with the 42mm perpetual calendar introduced a few years ago. I think the dial layout of this perpetual calendar is more “traditional”, designed for the perpetual calendar that the French call QP (Quantième Perpétuel), with the classic design of subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. This makes the 42mm model look more elegant and probably more in line with the refined style of the replica Portugieser watches. Though, frankly, this isn’t my favorite IWC layout. Sure, you can go for a more traditional color combination, like the one pictured below (gold-plated case and white lacquered dial), but IWC also knows how to offer you some more unique and interesting options.
Classic 1:1 Portugieser Perpetual Calendar for Beginners
The design of this new watch should feel familiar. Its appearance is somewhere between the previous 44mm IW503302 Portugieser Perpetual Calendar and the 2018 IW503406 Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, with the most striking feature being the dual moon phase display for the northern and southern hemispheres at 12 o’clock. This dial layout reminds me of the Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar series, specifically the Lake Tahoe Perpetual Calendar released last year. This may not be an obvious detail to the casual reader, but an important feature of this design is its ability to track the moon phases for both the northern and southern hemispheres at the same time – a feature you won’t see on the Portugieser QP42.
One of the main challenges that the Portugieser QP44 may face is its size. The 44mm diameter is already not small, and the 14.9mm thickness makes the watch look even thicker. However, the design of this watch has been completely re-optimized. The case ring is slimmer, the side profile is more streamlined, and the design of the double domed sapphire crystals on the front and back, although it adds some thickness, makes it possible to have a more impactful dial display and a movement that makes full use of every millimeter of space. This watch is not as exquisite as the replica Patek Philippe ref. 5070, but more like a “skinny man in a big coat”, which is completely opposite to the image in the movie “Tommy Boy”.
Top-rated AAA+ IWC Portugieser Watches for Men
Nevertheless, this replica IWC Portugieser watch still looks very large on the wrist, mainly because the dial extends almost to the edge of the case, and the narrow bezel and double-domed sapphire crystal further enhance the readability and visual sense of size. As a trade-off, this watch is equipped with the double barrel power reserve of the 52616 movement (you can also find the same movement in other IWC perpetual calendars released recently). While I don’t own a perpetual calendar, a longer power reserve is a huge advantage in theory – less risk of running out of power and less need to re-set the watch. IWC has done a great job with this, with the movement being easily adjustable via the crown. With a larger case size, the moon phase display would also be accurate to 577.5 years.
The Pellaton automatic winding system with a solid gold rotor combines practicality with high-end appeal. Part of the appeal comes from the large black ceramic gears on the back of the movement. Of course, the design of this movement is carefully angled. However, when talking about movements, the different levels of finishing and price differences are often obvious, especially when these movements are often wrapped in slightly cheaper materials and mounted in precious metal cases. Similar criticisms are common to the new fake Rolex White Gold Daytona, especially the versions with transparent cases.
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While I may personally prefer the replica IWC Pilot’s watches, I have to admit that the dial of the new Portugieser is indeed eye-catching. The dial is made of 15 layers of clear lacquer and is carefully sanded and polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials are made of milled brass, and the lacquer and index markers are carefully applied by hand.
In the end, I was left with only one question: which version do I like best? The combination of the yellow gold case and the obsidian dial is very eye-catching. I have a hunch that younger collectors may miss the classic and rare black and yellow combination on vintage watches such as Patek Philippe in the past. Although the design is a bit more complicated than the Calatrava, you still feel the retro charm. It also makes a good transition for us to discuss the next model. In this color combination alone, the copy IWC also launched a very cool new tourbillon with a day and night spherical display at 9 o’clock. The case measures 42.4 mm × 10.8 mm and uses the same super-strong yellow gold case (harder than 5N gold). More importantly, this watch is equipped with the new 81925 movement and is priced at $79,300.
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My second choice would be the dune-colored dial with a white gold case. You can insert a Dune pun here, but this soft sandy dial adds a touch of elegance to the white gold case – maybe they could try a similar design on the Perpetual Calendar, as I still find it a little dull. However, this is also a potential concern I have about this watch. Due to the precious metal case, the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is not cheap – the yellow gold model costs $46,500 and the white gold version costs $47,500.
This is undoubtedly a complicated perpetual calendar watch (making a perpetual calendar is not an easy task, let alone for a brand of the counterfeit IWC’s size). But for some consumers, the price may be too high to swallow. Previous versions have not necessarily maintained their value well in the secondary market, and faced with the high price paid for the new model, some customers may turn to gray market dealers. Only time will tell whether the various improvements of this new watch are enough to make buyers feel that they are getting good value for money.
Conclusion
The duplicate IWC’s Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, model IW5037, has a diameter of 44.4 mm and a thickness of 14.9 mm. It is available in an 18K white gold case and a horizon blue or dune color dial. There is also an 18K 5N Armored Gold® model with an obsidian dial or a silver-plated dial. All versions are water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is equipped with a 52616 caliber automatic movement with a Pellaton winding system.
The perpetual calendar display includes date, week, month, year (four digits), and permanent moon phases for the northern and southern hemispheres. There is also a small second dial, a screw-in crown, and a 7-day power reserve with a frequency of 28,800 times per hour. The surface uses a double-layer box-shaped sapphire glass with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The black alligator leather strap is from Santoni. The price is $46,500 (Armored Gold®) or $47,500 (white gold).